Alfama is the oldest and liveliest district of Lisbon. The name Alfama comes from the arabic word al-hamma, which refers to baths and fountains. And the white washed buildings are a callback to Moorish times. Then, Alfama was a neighborhood for the wealthy.
Alfama was initially inhabited by Romans and then by the Visigoths. After that, it became a Moorish foothold. When the Moors were vanquished, the rich moved out and Alfama became inhabited by fishermen and the poor.
By the 19th century, it was a gloomy depressing area. After the reign of dictator António de Oliveira Salazar, Alfama was largely abandoned. Crime started to raise. The city of Lisbon considered demolishing the district.
But it persisted and has been partially renovated. Now, Alfama is Lisbon’s most authentic relic from the period preceding the 1755 Great Earthquake. That natural disaster destroyed most of Lisbon except for Alfama, Bairro Alto, and the suburb of Belém.
Walking Tour of Alfama in Lisbon
I like to walk, so I’ve written this Alfama tour for a hike up and a stroll back down. You could easily taxi or tuktuk up to Castelo Sao Jorge instead and just stroll down, if you don’t like hills.
I’d plan to spend at least half a day poking in and out of the suggested sites. This is Lisbon at its historical best.
1. Igreja da Madalena
From the Baixa area, start on the far western edge of Alfama with the Igreja da Madalena.
Lisbon is of course overflowing with lovely churches. And the Igreja da Madalena is one of them. The facade is rather plain, but the interior is more interesting and quite ornate.
Word of warning though. You can’t take photos inside. But it’s free of charge to enter, so you might as well pop in on your way to the Sé Cathedral.
The Igreja da Madalena has a storied history. It’s been destroyed and rebuilt three times. It was first constructed in 1150. The church burned down in 1363 and was rebuilt.
Then, it was partially destroyed in a cyclone before being obliterated in the Great Earthquake of 1755 — with most of Lisbon. Queen Maria I replaced it in 1783. It’s now a national monument.
2. Lisbon’s Sé Cathedral
Five minutes away from Madalena is Lisbon’s Sé Cathedral.
It’s often called simply the Sé. It’s a Roman Catholic church with a fortress like exterior. Like St. George’s Castle, it’s been rebuilt. The church and its imposing facade fit in nicely with the vintage look of Lisbon. So stop to admire it on your walkabout.
The Sé dates from the 12th century. But it was largely destroyed during the 1755 earthquake. It took on its current form in the 20th century.
Inside, it’s nothing special, and rather homely, especially compared to your first church. Entrance is free, but there are long lines to access it. I wouldn’t bother, unless you are extremely serious about church interiors. The cloister also costs € 2.50.
3. Miradouro das Portas da Sol
Once at the top, you’re at the Mioradoura das Portas da Sol. This miradouro offers a very good view over the Alfama neighborhood.
If you’re willing to walk further, the view is slightly more interesting from Lisbon’s highest hill, at the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte (“Our Lady of the Hill Viewpoint”). It’s in the adjacent residential neighborhood of Graça, Lisbon’s street art hub.
4. St. George’s Castle
Despite what you may have read, Castelo de São Jorge or St. George’s Castle is not an “ancient” Moorish Castle. It’s a mid 20th century reconstruction built by dictator António de Oliveira Salazar in 1938-40. But it looks old.
It’s rather atmospheric and has amazing views. But you’ll have to wait in line and pay € 8.50 to see them. There are other free miradouros in Alfama, including Largo das Portas do Sol and, further afield, Miradouro da Graça and Miradouro da Senhora do Monte in the adjacent Graça neighborhood.
5. Monastery and Church of Sao Vicente da Fora
When you’re rested and re-hydrated, it’s time to head back down. Head toward the Miradouro das Portas Sol. From there, it’s an 8 minutes walk to the Monastery and Church of Sao Vicente da Fora. I think the monastery is one of Lisbon’s best hidden gems. Here’s my complete guide to Sao Vicente Monastery.
The Monastery of São Vicente de Fora is a jaw dropping 17th century monastery designed by Filippo Terzi. It’s dedicated to St. Vincent, who was proclaimed Lisbon’s patron saint in 1173.
Its marble halls, arcaded interior corridors, and sun dappled cloisters sport stunning azulejo mosaics telling historical stories. Upstairs, an unbroken tiled pattern winds throughout the entire monastery. 100,000 tiles were used, making it the world’s largest collection of Baroque tiles.
6. National Pantheon
Two minutes away from Sao Vicente da Fora is a cluster of sites, starting with the grand, imposing National Pantheon.
The National Pantheon was formerly the Church of Saint Engracia. Construction started in the 16th century, but was only completed in the 20th century. This 400 year delay spawned the Portuguese proverb “Obras de Santa Engracia,” meaning a work that never ends.
It’s cool, calm, and uncrowded. From the steps, you have a good view down over Lisbon. You pay 4 € to enter. The interior is quite lovely and houses the graves of various Lisbon luminaries and national heroes.
You can also head up to the roof for another miradouro type view, which makes the entry fee eminently worthwhile.
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